Ktima Gerovassiliou Avaton

There is value to be found in native grapes. This blend of Limnio (40%), Mavrotragano (30%), Mavroudi (30%) is delicious, ripe and deeply fruited, with texture and freshness. All for just over £20. It helps when it's made by the father of Greek winemaking, Vangelis Gerovassiliou, as well. 

A bordeaux style with Greek varieties: fermented in big oak vats and aged in barriques of various ages. Deep cherry red. Very toasty on the nose and a bit of oak char. Oak is prominent at the moment but there’s plenty of red and black fruit on the palate. Peppery and dry on the finish, fine-boned, refined, with a chalky fresh aftertaste. 17/20. Julia Harding, www.jancisrobinson.com.