Craig and Carla Hawkins are two of the most important, pioneering icons of South African wine. Their label, Testalonga, was born in the Swartland in 2008, at a time when the Swartland Revolution put the region on the map and proved it is much more than a land of cheap plonk. Winemakers like Adi Badenhorst, Eben Sadie, and Chris and Andrea Mullineux set the scene for true terroir-based winemaking, and then the young(er) guns like Craig, Carla, Johan Meyer of Mother Rock, and Jurgen Gouws of Intellego came along, pushing boundaries even further. They began playing with skin contact on their whites, earlier picking dates, lower sulfur levels, etc. in a way that their predecessors hadn’t.

Testalonga was born of that ilk, and today, it is known internationally as an honest producer making single-vineyard, varietal wines. When they started, Craig and Carla were trailblazers in orange wine. At that time, no one was making skin-contact Chenin Blanc with four weeks on skins; it was something of an abomination. But after a trip to Italy, tasting a skin macerated Vermentino from Antonio Perrino, Craig’s curiosity became a compulsion. “It spoke of something that I hadn’t felt before,” says Craig. When he couldn’t find anyone making these kinds of wines back home in South Africa, he took the challenge upon himself, and named his label after Perrino’s nickname, Testalonga, which is also a fabled Italian bandit.

The Swartland wine region, located north of Cape Town between Paarl and the Atlantic coast, has emerged as one of South Africa’s most exciting and innovative wine areas. Named after the indigenous “swartbos” (renosterbos) shrub that turns the landscape dark after the rains, the region has a warm, dry Mediterranean climate with long, hot summers and low annual rainfall. Cooling afternoon breezes from the Atlantic and large diurnal temperature ranges help preserve acidity and balance in the grapes, but water scarcity and drought remain constant challenges for growers.

The soils of the Swartland are diverse and include granite, schist, shale and iron-rich “koffieklip” – each contributing distinctive structure and minerality to the wines. Old bush vines, often dry-farmed, are a key feature of the region and are well suited to the harsh conditions, producing low yields of highly concentrated fruit.

Traditionally known for bulk wine production, the Swartland has, over the past two decades, become a hub of artisanal winemaking. Mediterranean varieties such as Chenin Blanc, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Shiraz, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Cinsault thrive here, and blends inspired by the Rhône Valley have gained particular acclaim.

The main growing areas include the Paardeberg, Malmesbury and Riebeek-Kasteel, each with its own terroir identity. Leading producers such as A.A. Badenhorst, Eben Sadie (Sadie Family Wines), Mullineux and David & Nadia have played a pioneering role, crafting wines of purity, texture and authenticity. Swartland wines are often perfumed and expressive, with flavours of stone fruit, citrus, wild herbs and savoury spice, reflecting the rugged beauty of this distinctive region.

Colombard is a white grape variety of French origin, historically grown in the Charente region for use in Cognac and Armagnac production. A natural cross between Chenin Blanc and Gouais Blanc, it is known for its high acidity and prolific yields, qualities that have made it both valued and, at times, maligned. Viticulturally, Colombard is vigorous and disease-prone, particularly to powdery mildew, which requires careful management to restrain its productivity and maintain quality. When controlled, however, it can deliver refreshing wines with distinctive character.

While its role in French brandy production has declined, Colombard has found a second life abroad, particularly in South Africa, California, and Australia, where it is often blended with Chenin Blanc or other varieties to create crisp, fruit-driven wines. It also remains present in southwest France, notably in Gascony, where it contributes to lively, aromatic dry whites.

Colombard wines are typically light-bodied, with zesty acidity and appealing aromatics. Flavours range from green apple, citrus and pear to more tropical notes such as guava, melon, and passionfruit in warmer climates. In blends, Colombard adds freshness and lift, while as a varietal it is appreciated for its clean, approachable style, often enjoyed young as a refreshing everyday white.