Luis Pato is a maverick and imaginative winemaker who took over from his father Joao Pato and made his first wine, a pure Baga, in 1980. In 1985 Pato started to introduce new ideas to Bairrada such as destemming of Baga grapes and the maturation of wine in new French casks. Luis Pato is continually looking forward, he is a genuine rebel, who, with a mix of science and revolution has introduced many innovations including rotary fermenters. This, amongst other things, has led to him being ostracised by the Bairraida DO (he left the DO in 1999). His wines are now labelled as Beiras DO, a Vinho Regional DO that covers both Bairrada and Dao. Ironically, he is now probably the best-known wine producer in the area.

Luis Pato has 60 hectares of vineyards which are planted with the red grape varieties Baga, Touriga Nacional and Tinto Cao. The white grape varieties planted are Maria Gomes, Bical, Cercial da Bairrada and Sercialinho (relatives of the Sercial of Madeira).

The Bairrada wine region, located in central Portugal between the Atlantic Ocean and the Dão mountains, is one of the country’s most distinctive and historic wine areas. Its climate is strongly influenced by the nearby Atlantic, bringing cool breezes, high humidity and abundant rainfall. These conditions create a long growing season that preserves acidity and freshness in the wines, though vintners must also contend with the challenges of unpredictable weather.

Soils in Bairrada are varied, but limestone-clay (the classic “barro” that gives the region its name) predominates, along with sandy and alluvial deposits in some areas. These soils retain water yet provide good drainage, offering excellent conditions for both red and white grapes.

The signature grape of Bairrada is Baga, a thick-skinned, late-ripening variety that produces structured, tannic reds with vibrant acidity and remarkable ageing potential. Modern winemakers are crafting more approachable styles, balancing Baga’s power with elegance. Other red varieties include Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Syrah. White wines are often made from Bical, Maria Gomes (Fernão Pires) and Arinto, yielding fresh, aromatic expressions.

Bairrada wines are known for their lively acidity, firm structure, and flavours of red berries, black cherry, spice and earthy notes, while whites deliver citrus, floral and mineral-driven profiles. The region is also celebrated for its traditional sparkling wines, prized for their crispness and finesse.

Baga is a red grape variety native to Portugal, most famously associated with the Bairrada region in the country’s central coastal zone. Thought to have been cultivated there for centuries, it thrives in the clay-limestone soils of the area and plays a defining role in the character of Bairrada wines. Viticulturally, Baga is a late-ripening, high-yielding grape with naturally thick skins. This combination makes it both robust and challenging to grow, as it requires long, warm seasons to achieve full ripeness, yet is susceptible to rot in wetter harvest conditions.

Outside Portugal, Baga plantings are relatively limited, though it can be found in small quantities in Dão, Douro, and Ribatejo, and has attracted experimental plantings in Brazil. Despite this, its global footprint remains modest, with its identity firmly rooted in Portugal.

The grape is known for producing deeply coloured, tannic wines with high acidity, giving them considerable ageing potential. Traditional styles from Bairrada are firm, structured, and austere in youth, developing complex aromas of dried fruit, tobacco, and earthy spice with age. Modern interpretations, however, often aim for earlier approachability, with softer tannins and vibrant notes of red cherry, blackberry, and floral hints. Baga is also used in sparkling wine production, where its acidity brings freshness and finesse.