The Badoz family have been vignerons in Poligny, in the heard of Jura since 1659, transferring traditional winemaking techniques and local know-how from father to son for more than 10 generations. In 1970 Bernard Badoz set about a varietal re-planting programme to match varietals with the different soils found in the ‘Roussots’ vineyards of the family domaine. This rigorous work enabled him to develop high end wines combining an expression of grape varietal with that of terroir. In 2003 his son Benoit took over and brought about further changes and new wines which further improved the overall quality.

The Jura is a small, characterful wine region in eastern France, nestled between Burgundy and the Swiss border. Lying in the foothills of the Jura Mountains, the vineyards sit at elevations of 250–450 metres and experience a cool continental climate with cold winters and warm, often wet summers. Historically, its northerly latitude meant ripening could be a challenge, but in recent years climate change has brought increased warmth and more frequent droughts, creating new pressures such as water stress and the threat of spring frost due to earlier bud-break.

The region’s varied soils are dominated by marl and limestone, with pockets of clay, and these contribute to the distinctive mineral character of Jura wines. Five grape varieties are permitted: the reds Poulsard, Trousseau and Pinot Noir; and the whites Chardonnay and the local Savagnin.

The Jura is best known for its traditional oxidative styles, notably Vin Jaune, made from Savagnin and aged under a veil of yeast (voile) for a minimum of six years. These wines are powerful and nutty, with flavours of walnut, curry spice and dried fruit. However, increasingly producers are making fresher, non-oxidative styles of Chardonnay and Savagnin, with notes of apple, citrus and saline minerality. Light reds from Poulsard and Trousseau offer delicate red fruit, floral aromas and savoury spice, often with striking personality and freshness.

Savagnin is an ancient white grape of the Traminer family, best known as the signature variety of France’s Jura. There it goes by Savagnin (or Naturé) and underpins the region’s most distinctive wines, while in Switzerland’s Valais it appears as Heida/Païen. Small, quality-focused plantings also exist in Australia (after the “Albariño” misidentification was corrected) and in pockets of central Europe.

In the vineyard, Savagnin buds early and ripens late, favouring cool to moderate climates with long, even seasons. It thrives on Jurassic marls and limestone, yielding naturally low to moderate crops with firm acidity and notable extract. The variety demands well-exposed, well-drained sites; spring frost, coulure during poor flowering, and pressure from powdery mildew or botrytis in humid spells are the main challenges. Careful canopy aeration and patient picking are essential to balance ripeness and freshness.

Stylistically, Savagnin is remarkably versatile. Topped-up (ouillé) versions are taut and mineral, showing citrus, green apple, quince and white flowers with a saline, chalky edge and a gentle phenolic bite. The grape also excels in traditional-method sparkling (Crémant du Jura) and contributes to vin de paille (straw wine), where dried-fruit and honeyed notes emerge. Most famously, Savagnin is aged sous voile for Vin Jaune: a slow, untopped maturation under a natural yeast veil that yields profound aromas of walnut, curry spice, saffron and bruised apple, carried by cutting acidity and immense length. Across styles, expect precision, texture and strong terroir expression, with outstanding ageing potential.