Carlos Lucas is the man behind a portfolio of quality wines from across Portugal, including the Douro, and the region closest to his heart, the Dão.

A pioneer of modern-style Portuguese wines and a talented winemaker with nearly 30 years of experience, he has replanted the vineyards at Quinta do Ribeiro Santo where his Dão wines are created from the area’s poor granite soils. His commitment to the region was affirmed when he acquired Quinta de Santa Maria, in Cabanas de Viriato, a ten-hectare plot of old vines planted with Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Alfrochiero and Jaen. Vineyards are managed using an integrated crop management system, with grapes harvested by hand into small boxes and careful selection in the vineyard, in order to produce a modern expression of authentic Portuguese varieties. His other projects take him across the country, and with the latest addition, ‘A River Runs Through It’ from the Douro we can see his immeasurable talent on display once again.

Encircled by mountain ranges and rooted in very poor granite soils, the Dão region is composed of vineyards scattered among pine forests at varying altitudes, ranging from around 1,000 metres in the Serra da Estrela down to 200 metres in the lower valleys. The vineyard landscape is fragmented, with small, discontinuous plots and estates of very modest size.

The surrounding mountains heavily influence the climate, protecting the vines from both direct continental extremes and maritime influences. This results in a temperate growing season with warm days and cool nights, while the nutrient-poor granitic soils naturally restrict vigour and encourage concentration.

Among the principal white grape varieties are Bical, Cercial, Malvasia Fina, Rabo de Ovelha and Verdelho, alongside the highly regarded Encruzado. In terms of red varieties, Touriga Nacional is the leading grape, while Alfrocheiro, Jaen and Tinta Roriz also play key roles. There are also plantings of lesser-known varieties such as Baga, Bastardo and Tinta Pinheira, which, although often undervalued, can add complexity and character to blends.

Touriga Nacional is widely regarded as Portugal’s finest red grape variety, known for its deep colour, intense aromatics, and powerful structure. Indigenous to the Dão region, it is now most famously associated with the Douro Valley, where it plays a leading role in both Port and dry red wine production. The variety has also found success in other regions, including Alentejo, Bairrada, and even internationally in countries like South Africa and Australia.

Aromatically, Touriga Nacional offers a rich bouquet of dark fruits such as blackberry, blackcurrant, and plum, alongside floral notes of violet and rose. It often shows spicy, herbal undertones and, with age, can develop complex hints of liquorice, leather, and cedar. On the palate, it delivers bold tannins, vibrant acidity, and excellent ageing potential.

Despite its high quality, Touriga Nacional poses several viticultural challenges. It is naturally low yielding and has small, thick-skinned berries, which contribute to its concentration but can reduce productivity. The vine is also vigorous and requires careful canopy management to ensure balanced fruit ripening and optimal exposure.

Thanks to its resilience, depth, and distinctive character, Touriga Nacional remains a cornerstone of Portuguese winemaking and a benchmark for quality in both blended and varietal wines.

Tinta Roriz, known as Tempranillo in Spain, is a key red grape variety in Portugal, particularly in the Douro Valley and the Dão region. It plays a vital role in both Port wine and dry red blends, often alongside Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca. In Portugal, Tinta Roriz contributes structure, body, and ripeness, making it a versatile and valuable component in the country’s winemaking.

Aromatically, Tinta Roriz is known for its bold, ripe fruit character, typically showing notes of red cherry, plum, and blackberry, often layered with spice, tobacco, and earthy undertones. It brings good tannic structure and depth to blends, with moderate to high alcohol and balanced acidity, depending on site and ripeness.

Viticulturally, Tinta Roriz ripens early and is generally easy to cultivate, which contributes to its widespread planting. However, it is susceptible to disease, particularly powdery mildew, and can struggle in excessively hot or dry conditions, where acidity may drop and flavours can become jammy. Careful site selection and canopy management are important to maintain balance and freshness.

Tinta Roriz is a cornerstone of many high-quality Portuguese wines, offering structure and richness, and continues to be one of the most important bridge varieties between Iberian viticultural traditions.

Alfrocheiro is an indigenous Portuguese red grape variety, primarily grown in the Dão and Alentejo regions, where it plays an important role in traditional blends. Thought to have its origins in the Dão, it is a relatively early-ripening variety that thrives in warm, dry conditions but also benefits from the diurnal temperature shifts provided by higher-altitude sites. It is moderately vigorous with small, thick-skinned berries, and is valued for its ability to retain acidity even in hotter climates. However, it can be susceptible to disease and requires careful vineyard management to avoid excessive yields, which can dilute flavour and structure.

Outside Portugal, Alfrocheiro remains rare, though small experimental plantings can be found in Spain (where it may be known as Baboso Negro) and in a few new world regions interested in Iberian varieties.

Alfrocheiro is typically used as a blending grape, providing deep colour, fresh acidity and soft but structured tannins. It contributes aromatic intensity, often showing vibrant notes of red and black berries, plum and blackberry, along with floral hints and subtle herbal or earthy tones. In some cases, it is vinified as a varietal wine, producing elegant, medium-bodied reds with balanced fruit and spice, and the potential to develop savoury complexity with age.