Con-Greg Grigoriou grew up on a vineyard in the Riverland, South Australia, where his father managed wineries for over 35 years. A few years ago, while working for an advertising agency in Melbourne, he tasted his first truly interesting Riverland wine, and something clicked - why weren't people producing high-quality wines in his home region? Con-Greg’s idea for Delinquente Wine Co was to take advantage of the Riverland’s small vineyards planted with Southern Italian varieties, which are suited to the region’s dry Mediterranean climate.

He buys in grapes from trusted growers who work organically and is pretty much hands-off in the winery. All his wines are small-batch and single-vineyard, fermented in stainless steel with wild yeast. His aim is to make wine that is pure, drinkable and delicious - or as he would put it, “smashable”. To complete his vision, he recruited local Adelaide Street artist Ankles to design the edgy, eye-catching labels. Amid a sea of Big Wine, Delinquente has managed to convey a unique aesthetic and clear point of view: fun, uncomplicated and terroir-driven wines that will challenge people’s perception of the Riverland.

Riverland, in South Australia along the Murray River around Renmark, Berri, Loxton and Barmera, is Australia’s largest wine region by volume. The climate is hot and dry—Mediterranean to semi-arid—with long sunshine hours, low annual rainfall and frequent summer heat spikes. Irrigation from the Murray is essential; breezes off the river and Lake Bonney, plus open canopies and night harvesting, help retain freshness. Soils vary from deep, well-drained sandy loams and red-brown earths to calcareous sands over limestone and fertile alluvial flats, influencing vigor and yield.

Workhorse varieties remain Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, alongside Colombard, Semillon and Muscat Gordo Blanco. In recent years, heat-tolerant Mediterranean and Eastern European grapes have surged: Fiano, Vermentino, Arinto and Greco for whites; Nero d’Avola, Montepulciano, Tempranillo, Aglianico and Saperavi for reds.

Styles focus on clean, fruit-driven, great-value wines: crisp, aromatic whites; lively, slightly sweet Moscato; pale, refreshing rosé; and plush, approachable reds. Increasingly, small producers craft site-conscious bottlings and experiment with low-alcohol and no-alcohol wines.

Flavours tend toward ripe stone and tropical fruits (peach, melon, pineapple) and citrus in whites; Vermentino shows lemon peel and a faint saline snap, while Fiano offers pear, fennel and almond. Reds deliver blackberry, plum, chocolate and spice from Shiraz and Cabernet, with Nero and Montepulciano bringing black cherry, blueberry and savory herbal notes.

Vermentino is a white grape variety believed to have originated in the western Mediterranean, likely in Italy or possibly Corsica, with a long history in coastal wine regions. It thrives in warm, sunny climates and is particularly associated with Liguria, Tuscany, and Sardinia in Italy, as well as Corsica and southern France (where it is known as Rolle). In recent years, plantings have expanded to Australia, California, and other New World regions with similar maritime conditions.

Viticulturally, Vermentino is well-suited to poor, rocky soils and resists drought, making it ideal for coastal and hillside vineyards. It tends to ripen late, maintaining good acidity even in hot weather. The grape’s aromatic potential is maximised with careful canopy management to protect from excessive sunburn.

Vermentino produces wines that range from crisp and refreshing to fuller-bodied, depending on ripeness and winemaking choices. The classic style is dry, light to medium-bodied, with zesty acidity and pronounced aromatics of citrus, green apple, pear, and tropical fruit, often accompanied by herbal notes of thyme, sage, or fennel, and a subtle saline minerality reflecting maritime influence. More textured examples may see lees ageing, adding richness and nutty complexity. Versatile and food-friendly, Vermentino is valued for its vibrant freshness and Mediterranean character.